Patrode rules coastal cuisine | Herald of the Deccan
During the monsoon, almost every house in the coastal and Malnad regions of Karnataka is busy preparing patrol, a recipe very popular in these regions.
Derived from two Sanskrit words ‘Patre’ (leaf) and ‘Vade / Vado’ (dumpling), patrol or patrado traces its origin back to Tulunadu.
Patrode is made with rice, colocasia leaves and a variety of spices. Also known as colocasia leaf rolls, they are steamed or deep-fried. Patrode is also used in the preparation of curries. Colocasia leaves are also used in various preparations in other parts of the country.
Due to its nutritional and medicinal value, the Ayush Union Department recently included patrol in its very first booklet containing 26 traditional food recipes recognized for their health and nutritional benefits from across the country.
The booklet says patrol is rich in calcium, vitamin A, C and dietary fiber. Its high fiber content helps maintain blood cholesterol and sugar levels in the body, and the iron content improves hemoglobin.
“Ayush systems of medicine have traditionally known patrol be nutritious. But it is now that he has received the recognition due to him by entering the Ayush booklet, ”explains Dr Krishna Prasad of the Dakshina Kannada Ayush department.
He adds that the phenols, tannins, flavonoids, glycosides and sterols in these leaves reduce chronic inflammation like rheumatoid arthritis while its natural antioxidants provide better immunity. Also, the juice extracted from the leaves is used to treat a scorpion sting.
“There are mainly two types of colocasia leaves and the difference lies in their texture, the thickness of the leaves and the stems,” says Geetha Kini, 72, a culinary expert. While one is grown naturally, the other variety can be cultivated.
Then there is a variant grown on trees called mara kesu, which is also used in the manufacture patrols. These leaves do not have crystals that trigger an itchy sensation in the upper palate like regular leaves.
Geetha says that currently about 15 patrol the recipes are popular. The Christian communities of Konkani, Tuluva (Udupi) and the Catholics of the coastal region have their own versions of making delicacies from colocasia leaves.
“The Konkan (rib) style of patrol is mainly spicy. We first clean the leaves of colocasia and remove the thick veins. It is then coated with a spicy and tangy paste of rice, urad dal and other ingredients, ”explains Geetha, as she skillfully rolls the leaves and cuts them into reels so that the layers of stuffing are clearly visible. . These little windmills are then sprinkled with rice powder and shallow fried on Tawa with mustard and fenugreek seeds until they become crisp.
She adds that patrol is traditionally eaten during the monsoon as it helps prevent many monsoon diseases.
Vimala, who made patrol for 50 years, uses chickpea, toor dal and moong dal to make soft patrol. It is served hot with a generous garnish of coconut oil.
“In Udupi cuisine, besides rice flour and spices, tamarind and jaggery are added to achieve perfect harmony,” says UB Rajalakshmi, author of the cookbook. Udupi kitchen.
In Christian families, patrols are specially prepared on the occasion of Mother Mary’s birthday in September.
Not just the houses, patrol can now be found on restaurant menus and also delivered to your door. It is a key attraction in food festivals such as ‘Aaatidonji dina’ which celebrate seasonal and traditional specialties.
In coastal and Malnad regions, these leaves are commonly found during the monsoon. Many people also grow them in their garden. But to meet the needs of areas where these leaves are not found, some farmers are starting their cultivation on a commercial scale.
Vishwas Subrahmanya in Puttur, who cultivates mara kesu, said they are in high demand. He grows up mara kesu in containers that are seven to eight inches deep and to achieve thicker, darker leaves, Vishwas uses sawdust and coconut pith as the base instead of soil.
“Many have shown interest in my method of mara kesu,” he says.