Test Driving Pivot Bar & Bistro – a dining room with a stellar view of London | Road test

Try to find a table overlooking the square – it’s an amazing view.

So what do you need to know about Pivot Bar & Bistro

You may have known that Scottish chef Mark Greenaway opened a restaurant in Covent Garden in the autumn of last year. At the time of its opening, it occupied the first floor of 3 rue Henrietta, a building which also housed a café, a tea room and a tiki bar. At launch, it only offered a tasting menu, but this summer, how can I put it? – pivoted into an all-day bistro, also taking over the ground floor space that was previously managed by The Gentlemen Baristas.

Where is he?

You will find 3 Henrietta Street in the heart of Covent Garden, at the southern end of the square. Take the stairs to the first floor where you will find the more formal dining room with a counter next to the open plan kitchen and a lovely dining area with great views over Covent Garden.

What is on the menu?

They describe it as “well-cooked gourmet classics at home”. In practice, this means a more traditional menu of starters, main courses and desserts – with a separate regional bread section.

Here is what we had:

covent garden pivot bar and bistro reviewWarm Stottie Cake with whipped Devon Crab Butter (£4) – bread changes monthly

covent garden pivot bar and bistro reviewCrackling Pork Crisps with Black Vinegar Mayonnaise (£8) – who doesn’t love a bit of pork scratching?

covent garden pivot bar and bistro reviewSpicy Lamb Sausage Roll with HP Sauce (£7.50) – just as good as it sounds. Stellar snack bar.

covent garden pivot bar and bistro reviewFree-range English chicken with mushroom and tarragon cream sauce (£19) – maybe it was our fault for ordering the chicken dish, but it was the disappointment of dinner, with no real seasoning.

covent garden pivot bar and bistro reviewBeef shank and marrow bone pie with a shallot and red wine sauce. (£24.50) – A huge pie, and there’s plenty of marrow in this bione too.

What is there for vegetarians or vegans?

Special mention for the accompaniments which, in addition to reading well on the menu, stood out on their own, including a particularly delicious Pomme Dauphinoise.

covent garden pivot bar and bistro reviewBraised Roscoff Onion with Wiltshire Truffles and Roasted Hazelnuts (£6.50) – this is a variation of the dish that featured on Pivot’s old tasting menu where it was The Onion course.

Room for dessert?

But of course…

covent garden pivot bar and bistro reviewThis raspberry pavlova (£9.50) – more like a giant meringue – came with lemon cream and a zesty caramel sauce.

What about drinking?

We didn’t manage to try the cocktails, although the Super Cosmo with lime peel infused vodka sounded like fun. The wine list ranges from a very decent house red (a Primitivo from Puglia) at £28 to a bottle of Mersault at £175, so there should be something for everyone.

General thoughts:

This attractive dining room is a great place to bring visitors to London, with great views of the street performers in the square below if you managed to sit near the window. The snacks alone are worth going and if you like pie you’ll want to try this one here.

Find out more about the Pivot Bar & Bistro

Where is he? 3 Henrietta Street, London WC2E 8LU

Learn more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @pivotbarandbistro.

Hot diners dined as Pivot guests. Prices correct at time of publication.

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